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Written by Fieke Jansen   
16 March 2007

In the small office of the state bus company CTM Chefchaouen a western man is hopelessly mumbling, “Fez, Fez, …autobus to Fez”. His voice is drowned by Moroccans who are involved in a heavy discussion in Arab Dialect. In the mean time others are trying to squeeze in-between to buy a luggage ticket. Morocco is on strike, all the commercial bus companies and grand taxi’s dropped their work for at least 4 days. 

Taxi on holdTangier had us in a tight grip, on the day that we where supposed to leave for Chefchaouen it turned out to be impossible to leave the city. The wind made it impossible for ships and ferries to dock and all transport companies in the rest of the country are on strike. The parliament is discussing a new law which concerns the traffic situation in Morocco. Only the busses from CTM, the state company continue their schedules, but of course, by the time we arrive at their office, the once a day bus to Chefchaouen has already departed.

The government in Morocco wants to address the high traffic accident rate. The new law will contain several things. In the future one will have to take driving lessens at an official driving school and pass an exam in order to obtain a license. At present you can buy a license for €100 after you can prove that you have driven a car for at least 15 days. This might be the reason why there are so many accidents. We ourselves have been subjected to the Moroccan art form of driving. During our time in Tangier we had to visit the new port, the city's new pride and joy. A friend of Azam has the time and a car and is willing to take us there along a winding cliff road. Our speed varies between 20 and 60 kilometers an hour, the shoulder of the road is not spared and once in a while someone has to jump out of the way. Our driver finds the conversation in the car of utmost importance, so sometimes he forgets to watch the road and the velocity. But then again, not looking someone in the eye while conversing is very impolite.

Strike declarationThe driver's license is not the sole item will be addressed in this new law. The repercussions after an accident are also up for debate. When the court finds you guilty of causing an accident, the new law can reprimand with up to 700,000 Dirham (€70.000). Your driver's license can be suspended for up to 2 months. And when a driver was reckless or drinking one can expect a jail sentence. The extraordinary Moroccan drivers do not agree with these serious ramifications, thus the unions called for a strike. 

In Holland the NS (Dutch Railway) announces a strike 2 weeks in advance, through different media channels, flyers and announcements at all stations. In order to inform the traveler in advance and cause the least  inconvenience. In Morocco the strike is covered in silence, the news nor the newspapers give any notice to it. Once you arrive at the bus station there is a nasty surprise waiting for you. The only buses that still travel between cities are completely full. Most people leave quietly. A Japanese man has an audience with the Japanese Embassy in Rabat, frantically he tries in poor French to get a seat on the bus. Unfortunately full is full and the strike will only hold on for a few more days, after which Morocco will be accessible again. Until then all you can do is wait.

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