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Written by Fieke Jansen   
09 March 2007

IMG_0179In our quest to find traces of Africa in Europe, we have started our journey in Andalusia, the south of Spain. Andalusia has been dominated by Moorish sultanas for centuries, which has left its marks. The Moorish heritage is to be found in the architecture of the city center of Granada. A hotel owner said “Granada is a melting pot, where the Arabic and European cultures come together. In my view this has always been a fact, this is what makes Granada.”

Walking through the ports of the Alhambra, you leave the streets of Granada behind. Underneath the overhanging branches there is peace and quiet, the only sounds are of the water and birds. As if you are in a different era, a time of kings and queens.

The Alhambra: made for Moor kings, inhabited by Spanish royals and remodeled for the French king Phillip V and his Queen Elizabeth of Parma in the beginning of the 18the century. Seated in one of the gardens, which is irrigated by impressive old Moor aquaducts, one can almost hear the laughter and chatting of children and the king's harem.

The Alhambra is an impressive part of the old times. The walls are ornate with impressive murals. Mosaic tiles, basins and fountains create an Arabic fairy tale. The legend of the Alhambra says that - inshalla, ‘if god wills it’ - a Moor from long ago will come and show the treasure of the Moor kingdom.

Abandoned by the royal inhabitants, the Alhambra became a place for thieves and bandits in the 18the century. After a grand sweep of the authorities the Alhambra became a place for the poorest of society. In its current form, it is a tourist magnet. Across from the Alhambra there is a criss cross of alleys and stairs, the image is one of an Arabic neighborhood. Everywhere you look there are ‘bazar’ shops, Moor doors and arches.

Despite the Arabic influence and heritage the fear of the ‘unknown’ is easily found here. According to a blonde Granadian, Granada has changed significantly with the arrival of strangers, before that Granada was a peaceful town. Being in Granada one sees the history of the Moors in the architecture. The city is a mix of colonial houses and Arabic style. Despite the physical cultural appearances the European and Arabic world are still miles apart according to some.

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